Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
